We're in Myanmar! After many many years I've now got a chance to visit this intriguing country and I'm feeling very excited about the next two weeks. I'm so excited I just want to write down every detail that invaded my senses today, but I've also travelled from Chiang Mai after an unexpected night of rum and two hours sleep, so I'm not sure I have the brain power or eyelid control for all that this evening - the definition of delirious right now. In a nutshell though, I had no idea what to expect, but so far it's wowed me and given me the nervously excited passion and inspiration to travel and explore around this new territory, to learn about the people and way of life and to experience as much as a I can whilst I've got the privilege to be here. But first, sleep!
Day 187 - Wednesday 14th December 2.46pm
Mingalaba from Myanmar!
Feeling slightly more refreshed today we have set off to the streets of Yangon, through the fruit vendors with wicker baskets lining the path, Jade jewellery and handicrafts of the bustling Bogyoke Market, Sri Kali Hindu temple flocked by a thousand pigeons, drinking a fresh coconut in the colourful narrow alleys of Chinatown and a quick lassi at the top of the Sakura tower for a panoramic view of the city. From there you could see the Shwedagon Paya, one of Buddhisms most sacred sites, standing tall, proud and golden in the sunlight.
We've found a shaded spot under the trees by Kandawgyi Lake to read and relax, enjoying the Lily pads and fountain in the warm sunshine, so I've got a moment to reflect on my first experience of Myanmar.
The first things I noticed were the number of monks in public spaces, the sardine packed buses and the colourful clothing of the local people. Males of all ages wear a longyi (sarong), similar to Sri Lankan style, but surprisingly even the younger generation wear it too. Ladies wear a traditional fitted top and long skirt which remind me of Bali or the traditional dress you see in Thailand. Thanakha is a natural sun screen used by most women in Myanmar as a strange yellow cheek makeup, ground from the fragrant Thanakha wood on a wet stone slab, for preventing sun damage and acne. Another thing I noticed is that Yangon is all cars, buses and taxis; there's no mopeds and tuk tuks around here as you would expect (although apparently the controversial Government has something to do with that). The air here is very warm without the sweaty humidity, and finally we have some warm evenings too!
To me Yangon has been an exciting infusion of Sri Lanka and Thailand - an intriguing mix of an Indian and Eastern influence, and I find myself smiling constantly as we take in the ambience and actors of daily Yangon life. Everyone we have encountered has been so friendly too; people will chat to you in the street for the pure reason to ask where you're from, recommend a place or wish us Merry Christmas! Oh and of course a regular random selfie. Last night we took a stroll to Sule Pagoda and grabbed some street food on the way (a brilliant samosa and some chickpea Rotti and Sri Lankan waddi style thing), when we were given apples by a chatty old man, proud to be speaking about his country. When I offered mine to the young receptionist at our hostel she seemed over the moon with excitement!
As we were planning our walking route for today we got chatting to two English and Deutsch guys who had both been in Myanmar a couple of weeks, offering some great tips for getting around. It makes such a difference when you're a naive novice in a place like this.
Reading about the history and culture of Myanmar like in Lonely Planet really helps you to understand and appreciate a place in a different way too, it makes me excited to get out there and soak it all up for myself! At the moment I'm really appreciating these books, I've just begun reading 'Unlikely Destinations' too, which is the story of how Lonely Planet was born and blossomed by the two naive travellers who set off to cross Europe Asia and Australia, ending their journey with only 27 cents. Already their story has been fascinating, amusing and an inspiration to really get stuck in and travel this crazy wonderful world that we're all part of.
6.22pm
Sitting in the non-stop Yangon traffic after our visit to the impressive reclining Buddha statue at Chaukhatgyi Paya and sunset at Shwedagon Paya. The latter is a huge gold Buddhist pagoda, enshrining the eight hair relics of Lord Buddha brought back to Yangon by two merchant brothers Tapussa and Bhallika over 2600 years ago when they visited Prince Siddhartha in India when he had just attained Buddhahood. For those who have no clue what I'm talking about, it was a gift from the Lord Buddha and his relics are enshrined in pagodas/stupas/dagobas across South Asia. The King of Okkalapa built the original pagoda and successive monarchs have rebuilt it until it's current height of 326 feet, decorated with 3,154 gold bells and 79,569 diamonds. Just a tad fancy then! It is pretty impressive, especially lit up at night after the sun blazed orange and the sky faded to a dusty pink across the city below us.
8.28pm
We've found a dodgy looking place for dinner and surprisingly enjoyed a sweet and sour chicken and beer. Let's hope our stomachs are stronger now!
Day 189 - Friday 16th December 3.56pm
We've made it to Inle!
Yesterday we had our last stroll around Yangon, discovering the most amazing samosas with a dragon fruit dessert in the pretty Mahabandoola Park, enjoying the warm sunshine and view of Sule Pagoda. We set off for our apparently 2.5 hour journey to the bus station as recommended, giving ourselves an extra half hour too just in case, actually arriving only 45 minutes later with over two hours waiting in a hot cramped room. Oh well! Enough to take in Burmese life as we drifted past then a few hours to catch up on my blogs.
We were also told our overnight bus to Inle Lake would only take 8 hours, timing us to arrive at 2am (which we thought was a bizarre schedule), but as each minute passed 2 o'clock, we thought surely it should be soon? Before we knew it, it was 5.30am when we finally pulled in. Brilliant. Luckily our hostel is amazing and offered us complementary beds to snooze until check in, complete with fluffy pillow and duvet (yet again it's freezing at night here). I would recommend this place to anyone - called Song of Travel if you're coming by this way!
We grabbed some free bikes from the hostel and took a little cycle around town, stopping now for our first proper meal in over 24 hours. Curry curry curry come at me.
6.04pm
Watching the final dust of colour fade from the sky atop the hostel rooftop; the sunset was beautiful silhouetting the western mountains and singeing the clouds fluorescent orange. The stars are slowly emerging above too, lead by Venus shining bright over the sunset horizon.
Day 190 - Saturday 17th December 1.37pm
Wow. Mountains on the horizon, dragon fruit growing at my feet, and the beautiful vast lake in between. The sky is bright blue, my papaya smoothie tastes delicious and the only sounds are birds chirping in the breeze. I think Inle Lake has just glided to the top.
This morning we fuelled ourselves with secretly seasoned potato wedges, smashed banana and egg on toast, then grabbed our bikes and headed on our path around Inle. The north of the lake is headed by marshland and paddy fields, with bamboo stilt villages somehow living on top. We passed dusty motorbikes carrying families or stacked with their farm goods, wooden shacks selling baskets of chilli and old school tractors steering the single front wheel by a long rod. Our first glimpses into true Shan life.
On our way we noticed an old steep staircase at the side of the road, probably leading up to a hill temple. After a very unfit climb, the view from the pagoda glimpsed the top corner of the lake and the stilt villages that line it, as well as the fields and farms stretched out to the mountains opposite.
The lake is pretty huge so it would take us days to cycle around the whole thing, so we took the common route across to the other side on a wooden longboat. This has definitely been the highlight for me so far, even after Megan somehow fell into the muddy marsh off her stationary bike. The man kindly took carried her bike across the dodgiest bamboo bridges to a water tank dribbling into the lake beside their bamboo stilt houses. This kind of raw living in nature fascinates me, these peoples lives are literally in a simple wooden box hovering above the edge of the lake. I could see corn drying inside the house to the right and two cute snorting pigs literally pigging out on their lunch in the shack next to it. A small boy was paddling under another house, balanced on the end of the tiny old wooden canoe like it was nothing. Can you imagine going to your mates house and grabbing your paddle and casually propelling your way there from the lake under your front door? Crazy. I wanna try it!
The boat ride itself was just as magnificent, gliding down the water alley past the village, decorated with a colourful washing line on each balcony. Little kids love to wave shouting Mingalaba as you pass and the locals would be pottering around in their own canoes. As we left the marshland we were taken aback by the sudden beauty as the lake opened out. I don't think any words or pictures will do it justice, but it's simply pure serene beauty. The water is calm and reaches out for miles around the mountains, skimmed with playful birds and dotted with floating flora. We were sat in little wooden armchairs single file along the low canoe, bikes ahead and our driver at the back. The sun was shining and everything felt pretty good. Let's hope no one loses their balance again out here!
Back on land we passed multiple monks on motorcycles, zooming by in their saffron robes, and rumbling trucks packed with boxes and bundles, with two Burmese boys bobbing away on the roof. Asian health and safety at its finest.
We've stopped for a break at Bamboo Hut just off the main track, which is set in a pretty garden with the dragon fruit plantation and papaya trees lining the cafe. They even give you a cute little bamboo mug of Shan tea to make the whole experience extra delicious.
4.19pm
I could see myself staying here for a while - it really is stunning. I love being amongst authentic local life too, it gives you a completely different understanding to your days and an interesting perspective of life. (Alright Miss Hippie). Would even like to maybe try out the Forest Monastry retreat one day up on the mountain, who knows what will happen. But for now I'm going to make the most of my hostel rooftop, Shan tea and sugar crackers, then a hot shower before wrapping up in my duvet. Time for a nap!
Day 191 - Sunday 18th December 9.10pm
We've got a 5am start for our sunrise boat trip tomorrow so I'm already tucked up in bed, full of the most delicious Myanmar beef curry and beer. Today we had the laziest day slouching on bamboo chairs on the rooftop, enjoying the sun and our books, as last night we had a 'wild night' for Myanmar - beers and cocktails accompanying our hostel Family Dinner night, chatting to fellow backpackers from Germany, Chicago and Canada until the early hours of the morning. The food was an absolute delight - Shan green tea leaf salad (my new favourite), fried corn with egg, beef and potato curry and stir fry vegetables. I'm starting to love Burmese food!
