Day 180 - Wednesday 7th December 12.30pm
Sadly it's my last day with Mum and Stu, but today my new little nephew has been born!
It wasn't until they piled their cases into the taxi that I had the sudden realisation that I've got to say goodbye yet again, for another seven months. It doesn't really get any easier.
I've really enjoyed my time in Bangkok, the first day we spent exploring the local streets, cooling off in the pool and spent the evening at Khao San road for great food and far too much market shopping.
On Monday we got the local taxi boat for a trip along the river, past the magnificent Wat Arun to the Grand Palace, where the masses had come to mourn and celebrate the Kings birthday. Wat Po gleamed as beautiful as ever, holding the 46m long sihasaiyas Lord Buddha as he reaches Nirvana. I think this is one of my favourite temples I have ever visited. As part of the temple they have the Thai Traditional Medical and Massage School, where I treated myself and Mum to a well deserved foot massage. That evening we had a slightly disappointing visit to Patpong night market, I had high expectations after everything you hear about the famous rowdy road, although you need to be in the mood and maybe give it a few more hours into the night.
Yesterday was nice and relaxing at the rooftop pool in the hazy sunshine, before exploring the ancient junk boat temple at Wat Yannawa and a lovely evening celebrating in style at the Sirocco sky bar (that one from the Hangover) with my favourites and a rather pricey Hangovertini.
Now the backpacking begins, away from luxury and into the world of cold trickling showers, broken fans and snoring room mates. Why travel half way round the world to feel comfortably at home?!
Day 181 - Thursday 8th December 10.17am
Swinging away in my hammock with a view of mountains, rivers and laid back hill country life. Welcome to Pai.
It's been a long, bumpy and windy journey here, seventeen hours after leaving the luxuries of our Bangkok hotel. It started with our first Thai overnight bus experience (the trains were all fully booked for the long weekend of course), which turned out to be surprisingly comfortable. We had top deck front row cinematic seats too, full panoramic view with extra leg room and a cosy blanket. Even got some sugar-pumped snacks to accompany us on the 9 hour drive to Chiang Mai. After dozing on and off we arrived to the central bus station at 5am, being told the Pai ticket office doesn't open for another hour. I spotted the safe haven of a 7/11 for an early morning Milo, then the heavenly Golden Arches appeared above the rooftops and lured me in for a very enjoyable sausage and egg McMuffin... Oops.
Another three hours later, with stomachs churning on the 762 curves up the mountains, we arrived to the sleepy town of Pai. The air is crisp and refreshing (aka I wish it was a bit warmer) and the scenery is a really beautiful backdrop behind the cosy row of cafes and hippy shops. I'm excited to have a wonder around, but right now I'm enjoying my mug of tea and my eyes are drifting off for a snooze...
Day 184 - Sunday 11th December 1.56pm
The sun is shining, the rivers are glistening and the mountains are beautiful. Our time in Pai has been an absolute delight, I can see why so many end up staying here forever.
On our first day we had a dreamy nap up in our treehouse at Up2U Guesthouse; mattresses and mozzy nets on a bamboo shelf above a dorm room. The whole hostel is wooden and open, truly connecting you with nature! Although surprisingly in four days I've only seen a handful of flies and spiders anywhere, after preparing for a nightly bug attack. I've actually quite enjoyed it.
Later on we set out to explore 'Walking Street' - the one stretch of road bordered by cute little stores and cafes. They have a daily night bazaar of street food and handmade Pai goods, which kept us occupied for hours, stopping at a small local restaurant for our £1 mussaman curry (which we even shared for extra value).
The next morning I woke up early and nestled myself out on the river veranda, snuggled with my blanket in the hammock for the most enchanting sunrise. As the light grew, the eerie mist over the mountains began to lift, making way for a really beautiful show, clouds burnt orange and sun blazing as it crept over the hilltop. Freezing cold but wearing the biggest grin, I was pretty happy I got up so early.
That morning we cycled and climbed up to Wat Phra That Mae Yen, the temple on the hill, and perched under the huge White Buddha statue for the awesome views over Pai and beyond. Time to nap in the sunshine by the river and cool off with a refreshing paddle. We took a motorbike up to Pai Canyon to join the small pack of tourists snapping the sunset, over the bizarre ridges of giant rock wall and tall teak trees.
In the evening we cycled back to the night market for endless quantities of every street food imaginable and more, our diet is going gooooood... The day time is sizzling hot under the sun, but the night time gets incredibly nippy, so I resorted to buying a hand woven cotton shawl as an essential to keep me cosy. I bet this is gonna come in handy!
Yesterday gave us a misty mountain morning, hiding the sunrise and warmth. We shivered our way to our early morning cooking class, learning about the ingredients at the local market then getting to work creating our own Thai dishes. I chose pad thai gai, penang curry including the paste from scratch, papaya salad with crab and a spicy tom yum prawn soup; the latter two I had always wanted to try.
They were all surprisingly simple and quick to make, tasting bloody brilliant if I do say so myself! Feeling very full and happy with our creations, we took another break by the river joined this time by a cow, who liked to stare moo very loudly and choose the grass too close to where I was sitting. Can't say I felt fully relaxed there but at least it was a vegetarian. We ended the day with more street food, shopping and beers with live music, new pals and good vibes.
There's a lot more to explore in Pai, temples and waterfalls and hot springs, and some sort of happy herbal grass people seem to smoke... We have just brushed the surface on our sweeping visit. It's a lot easier to explore around by motorbike, but we're still not buying into it (yes we are just too scared), instead we've been perfectly happy wandering around, reading and enjoying the view. They say you find love in Pai; time to open your heart and your mind and appreciate the nature, life and people around you. Yup, it's a truly hippy vibe! It's definitely a place I would return to, maybe on that 'One Day' trip when I actually have unlimited time to travel and live. One day.
Day 185 - Monday 12th December 8.18am
We are about to venture 44km into the jungle to fly through trees, whizz down a 1000m zipline rollercoaster and generally scare the poo out of ourselves. My eyes are heavy this morning but I'm sure that'll change when I'm about to throw myself off a cliff. Adrenaline is pumping!
Our long windy journey back to Chiang Mai yesterday was decorated with the beautiful mountain landscape and sunset. The scenery very much reminds me of our motorbike trip across the Vietnamese jungle, a stone's throw from the Laos border.
We are staying at Spicy Thai hostel for a couple of nights, which feels like a big family home with comfy seats and a friendly communal atmosphere. After we'd checked in and found our feet we explored the bustling markets Chiang Mai has to offer. The Sunday Market was a tad too chaotic and full of the same factory junk you see everywhere, so we stretched our legs for the long walk to the regular Night Bazaar, which is what I remember from my previous trip to this city. We were enraptured by the beautifully creative skill of the local artists, creating such realistic pieces with simple tools and mediums such as charcoal, line drawings and paint dotting. So enraptured that we couldn't help but support the local artists, in particular a sweet elder gentlemen who had sadly lost an arm but painted the most incredible elephants. He had one impressive masterpiece of an elephant family, in such fine detail using dotting and a rainbow of colours, which I vowed to buy if I'm ever rich one day! My favourite was the detail of an elephants eye, with every deep wrinkle and shadow dotted in with effortless perfection. The man said the painting was for happiness, so the kind soul said he would gift it to me for any price I could afford. Extremely tempted but restricted by my backpack and budget I had to reluctantly decline. I hope I'll be back one day.